Think ‘Chiang Mai’ and images of mountains and waterfalls come to mind. First time visitors might be forgiven for thinking that Chiang Mai’s key attractions and activities include temple tours and trekking, and that the Northern culture is defined by colourfully dressed hill tribe folk and an ancient moat. But one of the city’s greatest selling points is its fantastic shopping and the Baan Tawai craft centre south of the city is a cornucopia of handicrafts, home décor and Asian cultural souvenirs.
Thai handicrafts Baan Tawai
Few people come to Chiang Mai without an evening spent wandering the famous Night Bazaar and going home with a lot more than they intended. The range and prices of goods on display are astonishing, featuring everything from antiques to Zen art. But this is simply a convenient warm up for Baan Tawai, where many of the crafts are made and sold at much cheaper prices.
“We had a fantastic day there” says, Judy Hickman, from Kansas City. “In the end I spent more than a thousand dollars, and the lady at the shop is shipping for me”. She confessed that she didn’t intend to redecorate her home while on holiday but the prices were too good to ignore. “They’re making us a hyacinth sofa for out TV room and we got a bunch of awesome Buddha carvings, one huge one for our lounge wall” she gushes.
The area has been an artisan centre for quite some time, but with the influx of tourism it has expanded considerably in the past five years and now includes several arcades of stalls and small shops, with a whole new wing recently added. The road leading to the centre is also lined with larger shops dealing in furniture, outdoor ceramics and antiques. Handicraft dealers from all over the world now fly in regularly to stock their shops abroad, spawning a whole industry of sourcing agents and logistics support.
But if you’re just here for a little souvenir shopping you won’t regret squeezing a half day tour in to your Northern Thailand schedule. Baan Tawai is the cheapest place in Thailand to find silk, antique reproductions, incense, candles, oil and soap gift packs, ornaments, lamps, bamboo products, wall hangings, frames, vases and much more. They can all be found on market stalls at tourist centres in Bangkok, Phuket and Samui, but the range is far less and the mark-up almost 200 per cent. Most the items on display at Baan Tawai are uniquely Thai, many characteristically Northern and hand made from natural materials.
Wood is definitely the spirit of the place, with plenty of carved figurines, Buddhist art pieces, décor items and wall hangings. But the Thai have a knack for creativity and the range has diversified incredibly in recent years, introducing contemporary designs and ideas. Many of the shops construct teak furniture, made to order, at stunning prices. And although a bedside table doesn’t exactly fit into your suitcase, a professional packing and shipping infra-structure has developed which means you simply have to show up with your credit card.
Apart from spending money, just wandering among the stores and seeing the artisans at work is fun. The Thai are very gifted with their hands and you can see them weaving rattan, carving busts, painting, adding colourful finishes to figurines, or applying delicate lacquer work in time-worn traditions. Another wonderful aspect of Baan Tawai is the pride that the shop owners take in decorating their small shops. Chiang Mai has a distinctively romantic character and the locals love to create small ponds, gardens, water features and displays in the shops, hotel lobbies, restaurants, galleries and coffee shops all over the city. But by far the best little tropical gardens can be found at Baan Tawai.
Baan Tawai is also famous for Asian antiques, some of which rank among the world’s best. Chiang Mai is possibly one of the best places in the region to find not only valuable pieces but very authentic looking reproductions. After all, for 200,000 baht you can become the proud owner of a late-eighteenth century Burmese Buddha head made from marble or you can outfit your entire apartment with equally impressive looking copies for the same price.
“There’s a bigger market now for reproductions”, says Khun Monsit Boonvipatsavee, owner of Chilli Antiques – one of the most established dealers in town. “Now antiques are very expensive and difficult to spot, that’s okay if you’re a dealer, but now people are just looking for something that looks old”, he explains. His gallery on the Hang Dong–Sarapi road has some fantastic examples of ancient-looking Buddha figurines, bronze bowls, pewter and Burmese masks. He has perfected methods of burying newly crafted pieces soaked in acid to speed up the aging process to create truly impressive pieces of pseudo antiquity. Aged bronze Buddha heads are very popular accessories on the décor list of the expensive villas in Phuket and Samui and his pieces can be found in some the country’s most expensive hotels.
Thai products are fast becoming famous the world over, they are cheap and beautifully crafted. From silk bed throws to the ubiquitous triangle cushions, the distinctive styles are now found on flea markets and in decors shops from London to Christchurch. You may not have planned to take too much back with you but once you discover the delightful products available and the prices, you’re likely to be dashing to one of those luggage stalls at the night market.
by Chester J Crocker www.1stopchiangmai.com
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